The A to Z of building a great watch collection

Watch collecting and purchasing is often a journey of thrill, sophistication and a plethora of options. From timeless classics to contemporary wonders, each piece tells a unique story and echoes a distinct character. We present you with a guide that demystifies everything one needs to know about choosing the perfect timepiece, ensuring an informed and stylish decision.

Appreciation value

 

When it comes to buying assets, it is often best assumed that something expensive will be the way to go. Watches, interestingly, don’t move in the same way...they are based on much more than the ticket price. Keep your eyes peeled for watches that tend to have a ‘break the stigma’ value.

Beauty

Think about love at first sight—it is such a wonderful emotion based purely on instinct. That should be the first driver for you to buy a watch—how does it feel on the wrist and what drew you to it in the first place?

Complication 

Simply put, a complication is an extra feature that goes beyond telling time. While most revolve around accuracy enhancement, measuring time with intent, and indicating time in other time zones, there are also added aspects such as a moonphase displaying the day, date, and more. On the face of it, these seem simple but it is about crafting a mechanical device to do so with little to no intervention that makes them coveted. Take for instance the IWC Eternal Calendar, which ensures you don’t have to reset it for 45 million years.

Dial

You may love the brand, you may love the bracelet but if you aren’t obsessed with the dial, you aren’t doing it right. The dial size, shape, look, and feel should be the biggest contributors to your decision.

Exclusivity

Think special and limited editions, but most importantly, choose those watches that are led by stories.

Fashion watches

Don’t be fooled by the blanket statement that fashion watches aren’t worth it. Upon further inspection you will see brands like Chanel, Gucci, and Hermès, among others are creating state-of-the-art watches that are true to their brand value and beyond.

Genderless

Be it big and chunky, or petite and slim, encrusted with gems or made from carbon, never let the brand’s categorisation ever define your choice. Every watch is for everyone...it is a personal style thing, not about gender.

Hype

Celebrity endorsements and collaborations are always exciting but don’t let that solely define your choice. Upon closer inspection, you will see that there is a timepiece by the same brand similar to the one spotted, which is probably more you.

Information

While press and people of influence are always great for watch reviews, don’t be afraid to explore the editorial sectors of various watch brands, including Rolex, IWC, and Longines, among others. Bulgari has even developed an app that takes customers through their entire universe and what’s happening behind the scenes.

Jewels

A great way to combine two complementary obsessions is jewelled timepieces...be it a bedazzled bezel or a completely snowset bracelet, there is one for everyone. Plus, it goes from day to night seamlessly!

Keeping up with the trends

While this is perfect for when you are further into your collector journey, if you are just starting out, ‘trending timepieces’ is not the way to go unless it actually matches your personal style.

Landmark

 A milestone birthday? An anniversary? A big promotion? A dream job? The possibilities are endless and, yes, each one is perfect to match with a watch, preferably engraved at the back. PS: most brands offer this service, all you have to do is ask.

Material mania

 

There is a slew of new materials that have infiltrated the market including carbon, titanium, ceramic, sapphire—the list goes on! If the classic gold and stainless steel is not your cup of tea, take the plunge and go beyond.

The ‘no’ list 

- Never settle for any price, but the standard MRP.
- If you’re buying a pre-owned piece, pick one that has the box and all the papers. 
- Being impulsive!

Option B

 

Let's face it, not all watches are available all the time, and that’s okay. While you can mostly manifest them on a waiting list, if you need to buy immediately, always keep an option B—one that embodies mostly everything you love, just by another brand.

Patina

The gentle wear of a watch that is caused over time is referred to as a patina. It often makes the value of watches higher over time. The thumb rule to follow: never get your watch polished.

‘Quartz’ vs mechanical

In plain words, a quartz watch is one that runs on batteries while a mechanical one winds the watch with the movement of your wrist. Both have their pros and cons...make a choice based on your usage.

‘Retailers’ vs brand stores

Always remember most retailers are authorised sellers of brands so buying from them is safe. This information is always on the brand’s website under the ‘store locator’ tab. Once you have the information, choose a point of sale accordingly.

Sport watches

 

 Almost every brand creates ‘tool watches’ inspired or designed for a specific sport. Today, these have become more coveted for their style and are perfect for any occasion, in fact, they are now markers of passion.

Timelessness

If you are at the cusp of buying your first-ever watch, don’t be afraid to go classic—they have been popular for decades for a reason.

Utility

Let’s get one thing straight, if I ask you the time right now, you will look at your phone, not your wrist. Watches are no longer a utility item, they are a novelty. Unless you go digital, that’s a whole different universe.

Vintage

If your budget allows it, vintage watches are ideal to set yourself apart. They also come with a story, which is always a plus. Bonus points if it is passed down in the family.

Weight of the watch

While most are designed to be comfortable and light, others pride themselves on their tonnage. This is why it’s key to try on a watch before you buy it so you know if you are okay with it on your wrist.

X-factor

The most important one of them all: buy a watch you will wear. This comes with a heavy dose of x-factor value, it might not be logical and simply gut, and it’s right.

Say 'yes' to

- Understanding every aspect of your wishlist watch. 
- Asking questions without fear. 
- Buying a quartz watch is not a crime, sometimes it’s more practical than a mechanical one.

Zest to buy

 

Consider this your warning: once you fall in love with watches, you will want to keep collecting them.

Feature Image Credits: Unsplash

All images are courtesy of respective brands.

This article originally appeared in Cosmopolitan India, May-June 2024 print issue. 

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