The hype around face oils is real, and we're giving in

Well before I took beauty to be serious business (is beauty obsessed but beauty blind a thing?), and it was all about finding the quickest hack to no dark circles, no pimple scars, goodbye pigmentation...you get the gist...I spent my first real paycheck on the smallest bottle of Kama Ayurveda Kumkumadi Oil I could afford. Why? I walked into the store and they sold me on the miracle in a bottle it was. And it sure worked, as much as it could anyway (I now know my dark circles aren’t going anywhere). I became a face oil advocate, and it became a constant on my beauty table until serums, overnight masks, and seven-step routines, which had little room for oil, took over. Then also came the myth of “you can’t be using oils if you have oily skin”, and “oil blocks pores (you mean coconut oil does) and acne-causing enemies!” that dissuaded a whole lot of us from being part of the oil brigade.

The rising popularity of face oils

Turns out, we all were pretty wrong about it all. Choose the right one and there could be room for face oils despite any and all routines and skin types. And while we could dismiss the current obsession with them as another fad, we may not want to. “Consumers are increasingly looking for products with minimal ingredients that are free from synthetic chemicals. Face oils fit this perfectly since they are often composed of pure, plant-based ingredients. Plus, the skincare industry has evolved with better formulations, allowing oils to be lighter and more easily absorbed, making them suitable for a wider range of skin types,” says Dr Chytra V Anand, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist.

I, myself, remembered my fondness for them when I recently tried the Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil and found my dehydration lines (you can tell when they go away when you massage them) significantly reduced in a few uses. A point that was reiterated by the glowing Miss Celine on yet another viewing of Gilmore Girls who said “olive oil on the inside and the outside”.

The historic uses of oils

Olive oil has been a go-to in the Mediterranean, and a beauty essential in Ancient Greece and Rome for its hydrating and antioxidant properties. The ancient Egyptians used moringa and castor oil for their skin-softening properties. And camellia oil was a prized traditional Chinese medicine ingredient for its ability to balance skin moisture levels. “Egyptians used oils in cosmetics. Romans used them in sports for their athletes. Greeks would include them in making perfumes. Chinese used face oils for healing and with Gua Sha for lymphatic drainage. Many in the Middle East used face oils in their bathing rituals...” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Founder & Medical Director of Yavana Aesthetics.

Of course, not to forget the long history of oils in Ayurveda, where oils like coconut, sesame, almond, and neem were used not just for moisturising but also to balance doshas (body energies) and promote overall well-being. “Not to forget the importance of oils in hair care, with the concept of “champi” or head massage being a longstanding tradition to promote hair health and relieve stress,” says Dr Anand.

 

What do they really do?

Simply put, they help supplement the natural oils your skin produces, thereby adding moisture to your skin, preserving it, and improving, even repairing the skin barrier. Retaining and maintaining skin moisture is the biggest purpose of face oils. “We have natural facial oils, sebum, and lipids that help soften the skin, seal water in skin, and strengthen the skin barrier,” says Dr Agarwal.

“Similarly, external facial oils work as emollients and/or occlusives to help replenish face moisture and prevent loss of hydration incase of dehydrated and dry skin,”—depending on the size of the fatty acid molecule, if the molecule is small enough to penetrate the skin it will help hydrate it and if not it will sit on top and ensure water retention. Oils like argan and jojoba (which also double up perfectly as a make-up remover!) are known to improve skin barrier. Tea tree oil has shown antibacterial and antifungal properties and can be great for acne; and similarly, grapeseed oil is another good bet with its cell regeneration abilities. Rosehip has gained immense popularity for its antioxidant benefits. But experts suggest that there may be more effective formulations for these concerns, oils are for everything moisture.

Who should use them?

Ask any dermat and they agree, when it comes to face oils, while everyone can try them, it is not crucial to your skincare routine, and it all comes down to finding the right one. “Face oil can be beneficial for a wide range of skin types, but it is particularly effective for those with dry or dehydrated skin. However, even those with oily or combination skin can use face oils. Oils like jojoba, which closely mimics the skin’s natural sebum, can help regulate oil production. People with sensitive or ageing skin may also benefit from face oils, as they often contain essential fatty acids and antioxidants that can soothe irritation and combat signs of ageing. It is all about finding the right oil that suits your specific skin needs,” says Dr Anand.

And how?

Cardinal rule: always use oils as the final step of your skincare routine; unless you are using it in the day, in which case apply it before the sunscreen. And make sure you give time for all your other products to be absorbed by the skin before you add the oil. “I recommend using facial oil at night as they have repair properties so they work better overnight. In case you wish to use facial oils in daytime, use it when you are not stepping out in the sun a lot,” says Dr Agarwal. Dr Anand also recommends trying it as a primer, or mixing it with your foundation for that extra bit of hydration! Bottom line: There is a face oil for every skin type, as long as you pick carefully. And, of course, remember you’re looking for moisturisation and moisture retention with these, everything else is just a fringe benefit. 

Here are our top recommendations:

Gunam Multi-correctional face oil, ₹3,000 (30ml)
 

Kama Ayurveda Kumkumadi facial oil, ₹3,895 (30ml)

Ras Jojoba pure plant oil, ₹990 (35ml)

Biossance Squalane + vitamin C rose firming oil, ₹7,300 (30ml)

Kiehl’s Midnight recovery face oil, ₹4,200 (30ml)

Pahadi Loc Apricot kernel face & body oil, ₹1,075 (100ml)

Lead image credit: Getty Images

This article originally appeared in Cosmo India's September-October 2024 issue.

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