Dopamine or FOMO—the real reason behind extreme beauty trends

Are you Team Brat or Team Demure? In the past few months, you’ve most likely witnessed this debate explode on your Instagram feed. The viral trend, which took the Internet by storm, divided beauty lovers into two camps. To decode the trend: Those that prefer an edgy, carefree look (think British pop star Charli XCX) will be part of Team Brat while Team Demure is all about subtle elegance (think the understated style of Sylvie Grateau—played by Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu—from Emily in Paris). Make-up trends often tend to swing between bold extremes and subtle/minimal—from the flashy Y2K aesthetic and Barbiecore to moody grunge and ‘no-make-up’ looks. Of course, we all know how quickly trends evolve. However, have you wondered what drives them? And what does this constant evolution say about us? We finally have some clarity, thanks to four make-up artists and beauty content creators who help us understand the psychology behind the trend cycle—to find out if it is the dopamine rush of trying out something new or the fear of missing out in this hyper-connected world.

“I love Gen Z’s risqué and empowered take on beauty and style today,” says celebrity beauty expert Elton J Fernandez. Reflecting on the bold shift in make-up trends, Fernandez says, “Make-up, be it luxuriously demure or brazenly bratty, will always trend as long as human beings have the power of imagination and feelings to express.” Make-up artist Sushmita Vankar agrees that constant experimentation and personal expression are the goals here. “It is all about doing what makes an individual feel good. Whether it suits you or not, you can always tweak the make-up to your liking and that is where the magic lies,” she tells Cosmo India.

But trends are highly influenced by socio-cultural factors as well, mentions beauty influencer Aleena Rehman. Trends, she believes, often mirror deeper societal issues, particularly those around identity and shifting beauty standards. Think bold looks like Y2K glam—these reflect the era of excess and experimentation—she points out. “Trends like quiet luxury embrace minimalism and restraint during periods favouring subtlety.” She makes a connection between beauty and societal changes, and says that even seasonal changes impact make-up choices. “Trends like grunge resurface during colder seasons due to their darker, moodier aesthetics that align with the overall atmosphere of fall and winter. The whole vibe of it is more mysterious and complements the muted, layered fashion and cosy indoor activities common in colder weather,” she points out. In contrast, warmer months invite bold, cheerful make-up that suits outdoor events, sunlight, and the upbeat vibe. Rehman says it is hard to negate the influence of social media. “It amplifies the pressure to always appear current and pushes individuals to adopt trends for the sake of fitting in.” Vankar echoes this sentiment, adding that the “need to stay relevant and always trying to come up with something new and exciting is why we tend to swing so much between make-up trends.” The theory of trends extends into seasonal product releases by brands. “You will see releases of darker/deeper shades in fall/winter and bright colours in summer. We tend to associate certain colours with certain seasons. It means brands are constantly putting in the work, trying different things, giving us options to choose from. There’s always something for someone,” Vankar adds.

Make-up artist Sandhya Shekar is not a fan of trends. “The minute I hear people asking me about trends, I want to run in the opposite direction,” she laughs. Trends are often copied without truly being understood, driven by social media and the fear of missing out (FOMO), she argues. “I see people using a five-step, six-step routine because obviously, if you don’t put that many steps, somewhere you are messing up. Honestly, we’re not really listening to what our body and skin is trying to tell us and it is doing more harm than good.”

But are all trends fleeting and are they always a bad thing, we ask. Vankar believes that’s not the case. “If it weren’t for these trends, we probably wouldn’t have had 40-50 different shades of foundations today versus six or 10 earlier,” says the make-up artist. Fernandez prefers trends “that stem from subcultural experiences because they arrive from the bottom up and are slowly embraced by the mainstream”.

This organic rise contrasts with the larger global trends. “Global trends have a top-down approach, driven by corporations with larger agendas that ultimately drive sales and consumerism.” This perspective captures a growing preference for individuality over mass-produced aesthetics. Shekar too believes that the beauty industry is driven by consumerism, with brands creating trends to maintain buzz.

While we may not ever know when enough is enough, consumers and creators do feel overwhelmed. Yet, for a few, the constant change is a part of the appeal—this rush keeps them coming back for more. Either way, one thing is certain, make-up trends will continue to evolve and shape our personalities.

All images: Getty Images and Instagram 

This article originally appeared in Cosmo India's September-October 2024 issue.

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