A guide to curl care the South Indian way

"Namita is your hair natural? Do you have extensions? It must be such a worry to maintain your long curly mane.” These are a few of the many odd curiosities people have when they first encounter me. In a country like India, where women largely have thick hair genetically—FYI: Our country is the largest hair exporter for wigs in the world—the average curly hair Joe has still not found her rhythm.

Curly hair has undergone a remarkable transformation in the beauty industry. Once considered unruly and challenging, it is now celebrated for its natural texture and unique beauty. This shift from a preference for straight hair to an appreciation of curls, has brought about a wave of new hair care practices and products. But I still remain old-school. Colonisation and the Internet have made us adapt to many western practices, but just like how we swiftly moved from the Indian toilet to the western one, we also moved from indigenous cotton to terry cloth towels. In your hair care routine, nothing reigns more supreme than the ‘thorth’ (a traditional bath towel that is used in Kerala).

Understanding texture 

Curly hair, with its beautiful spirals and waves, requires special care to maintain its health and lustre. One common challenge for those with curly hair is dryness. Unlike straight hair, curls can have a harder time retaining moisture due to their structure. The twists and turns in curly hair make it more difficult for natural oils produced by the scalp to travel down the hair shaft, leading to potential dryness and frizz. 

The impact of weather and products 

In regions like South India, where the climate is hot and humid, curly hair can face additional challenges. High humidity can exacerbate frizz, while dry heat can strip curls of their natural moisture. To combat these issues, it is essential to adopt a hair-care routine tailored to the unique needs of curly hair in such climates. One crucial tool for maintaining moisture and preventing frizz is the wide-tooth comb. Unlike regular brushes, which can disrupt the natural curl pattern and cause breakage, a wide-tooth comb gently detangles hair without damaging the curls. This is particularly important for those with long curly hair, where the risk of tangling and breakage is higher. I choose to detangle my hair while my deep conditioning hair mask is on in the shower. No naturally curly girl should ever comb her hair when dry. 

The power of sulfate-free products 

Another key aspect of curly hair care is using sulfate-free products. Sulfates, common in many shampoos, are harsh detergents that can strip hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle. For curly hair, which is already prone to dryness, sulfate-free shampoos are a better choice. They cleanse the scalp and hair without removing essential moisture, helping keep curls hydrated and well-nourished. So please remember the cardinal rule. It is not called “hair wash”, instead it should be referred to as a “scalp wash” because one must clean their scalp for better hair. It really is that simple. 

The south Indian towel technique 

This is my personal holy grail. When it comes to drying curly hair, the type of towel you use can make a significant difference. Traditional western towels, often made of terry cloth, can be too rough for delicate curls and may cause frizz or breakage. Instead, consider using a South Indian towel—a soft, cotton towel known for its gentle texture, a thorth. This type of towel is ideal for drying curly hair because it absorbs moisture without roughing up the hair cuticle. By gently drying your hair with a South Indian towel, you can reduce frizz and avoid split ends. It does not break the hair shaft, and it absorbs all the excess water as well. By the time I am done with my make-up, with my thorth on, my hair is almost dry.

Another bonus is that the thorth dries way faster than a terry cloth fluff towel. I am so committed that I travel with one everywhere, no matter how many stars my hotel has. 

The heat-free approach 

Heat styling tools, such as blow dryers and straighteners, can be particularly damaging to curly hair. The high temperatures can strip moisture and lead to dryness and breakage. For optimal curl health, it is best to avoid heat styling altogether. Instead, let your hair air dry or use a diffuser attachment on a blow dryer set to a low heat setting if necessary. Embracing your natural curls and minimising heat exposure will help maintain the integrity of your hair and keep it looking its best. The thorth to the rescue again. 

The importance of a clean scalp 

A clean scalp is crucial for healthy curls. Regularly washing your scalp helps remove product build-up, excess oil, and impurities that can weigh down curls and lead to dullness. 

Embracing the curly hair revolution 

Historically, straight hair was often seen as the epitome of beauty, with curly hair sometimes considered less desirable. I have been called all kinds of names growing up from ‘Sai Baba’ to ‘Gollywog’. However, the beauty industry has seen a significant shift in recent years, with a growing appreciation for texture and natural curls. Today, curls are celebrated for their volume, bounce, and individuality. This cultural shift has encouraged more people to embrace their natural texture and adopt hair-care routines best suited to them. The beauty industry has seen an oversupply of curl products, from celebrity-backed brands like Beyonce’s Cécred, Tracee Ellis Ross’s Pattern Beauty, Fenty Haircare by Rihanna to homegrown formulations from brands like Moxie Beauty and Fix My Curls.

Growing up when I would see my mother and aunts cooking in the kitchen with their thorth on, I never understood why they would not blow dry their hair like other women. But, what I realise today is that they were just bad-ass women multitasking and taking measures to care for their hair health long-term. Caring for your natural hair and wearing your roots (pun intended) like the crowning glory that it is a sign of good health and individuality. To summarise it all, by understanding the specific needs of your curls and adopting practices such as using a wide-tooth comb, sulfate-free products, and a South Indian towel, you can keep your hair healthy, hydrated, and gorgeous. Embrace your natural texture and revel in the transformation from an era that favoured straight hair to one that celebrates every curl and wave.

Lead image credit: Getty Images 

This article originally appeared in Cosmo India's September-October 2024 issue.

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