Six homegrown labels that are reviving traditional Indian textile and craft traditions

While promoting the 2022 film Goodbye, actor Rashmika Mandanna caught our attention when she wore a gorgeous co-ord set with traditional multi-coloured ajrakh (a traditional block printing technique) print all over it. The Indo-Western set featured a crop top with wide-legged pants and a floor-length cape. Let’s just say it was the perfect combination of a modern-day silhouette and traditional craft. After all, easy-breezy ensembles win our favour every single time.

The fashion narrative of our country has seen a paradigm shift in the last two decades. We have shifted our gaze from individuality to ‘what everyone is wearing’, from personal preferences to Pinterest mood boards, and from seeing art forms in clothes to ‘artistic trends’. But who doesn’t want a statement piece, which is not churned out of the ‘core’ cycle repeatedly? We are awe-struck whenever there are pieces that blend art with fashion (case in point: the Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla lehenga—it had 12 panels hand-painted by Indian artist Jayasri Burman—worn by Radhika Ambani on her D-day). So when a crop of new-age designers use this sensibility in their design vocabulary, we can’t help but celebrate them. Here are six homegrown brands that are slaying it—they have proved themselves to be the antithesis of fast fashion by bridging the gap between India’s rich textile heritage and contemporary design.

Saim

Founded by NIFT (Kolkata) graduate Saim Ghani in November 2023, this brand weaves together tradition and modernity. The brand ethos is in its tagline—‘Let’s make culture the new cool’.

SAIM India revives traditional Indian staples such as the ganji, ghoonghat, and topi in contemporary and comfort-driven designs. With his brand, Ghani has constructed an ecosystem of style that refuses to shy away from its roots.

The designer shares, “Contemporary does not necessarily have to mean an ‘alteration’; it is about uplifting traditions for today’s generation.”

The brand’s future collections aim to revive traditional Bengal saris, blending them with modern silhouettes. Ghani believes that “culture and modernity have to go hand in hand; if one collapses, so does the other”.

Looking ahead to 2050, Ghani envisions a return to tradition in Indian fashion. He believes that history will repeat itself, bringing back traditional styles with modern functionalities to suit fast-paced lives. “The reimagined past will be the new future,” he asserts, emphasising that the fashion of the future will be guided by a revival of nostalgia rather than artificial intelligence.

Kardo

Imagine a garment that speaks for its provenance!

All Kardo garments come with a tag that mentions the names of every person who has worked on its making. The Delhi-based label has a unique “one x one” production practice, wherein each garment is hand-cut and sewn by one tailor and then hand-finished as well. The brand ethos: It is not where it is made that matters, but who made it and under what conditions. With a simple yet profound vision to create nostalgic but quirky pieces, the streetwear label has reimagined
craftsmanship like no other.

Founded by Rikki Kher in 2013, Kardo curates collections that intertwine with traditional art. Presenting an antithesis for mass-produced fast fashion, their collections feature the traditional block print techniques like ajrakh and shibori, as well as chikankari and rabari embroideries along with appliqué work.

An homage to slow living, Kher seeks to “evoke different emotions by modernising the styles and settings of where these crafts sit”.

Tega Collective

Bengaluru-based Tega Collective was founded in 2022 with a mission to amplify Adivasi culture and knowledge. It focuses on native fibres, plant dyes, and hand craftsmanship, ensuring Adivasi communities create and profit from their culture. “Our collections are co-created with Adivasi communities like the Lambani artisans at Karnataka’s Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra, highlighting traditional colours, patterns, and symbols,” says brand founder Niha Elety.

For Elety, sustainability is a way of life. “Tega preserves ancient agricultural practices and hand-weaving textiles, reflecting what fashion should be. Nature remains our biggest inspiration, driving us to create beautiful, sustainable fashion that honours the rich cultural heritage of Adivasi communities. As we move forward, Tega Collective continues to advocate for a fashion industry that is just and equitable for both people and the planet,” she adds.

Currently, 20 out of 500 artisans from Sandur contribute to Tega’s collections. According to the label’s wealth distribution model, 15 per cent of the profit goes to these communities and 3 per cent is donated towards Adivasi regeneration initiatives. Tega envisions a future where sustainable fashion is rooted in indigenous craft and regenerative agriculture, fostering localised economies and cultural designs.

Farak

Sanganeri and bagru block printing techniques, handloom weaving, and kantha embroidery remain at the heart of streetwear brand Farak, led by Rishabh Kumar. “We choose these based on accessibility to artisans and our vision to explore India’s hidden gems,” he says.

Inspired by Finland-based musician Axel Thesleff’s blend of Indian folk and Western music, Farakwas born in Jaipur—the perfect backdrop for exploring traditional techniques. “I researched and worked with various artisans for three years before launching the brand in 2021,” Kumar shares.

The label’s new collections feature bandhani, ajrakh, and the soon-to-be-introduced Rogan Art—a cloth printing technique practised in Gujarat. “Indian craftsmanship has thrived for over a thousand years. By reinterpreting traditions, we ensure they resonate with today’s youth,” the co-founder signs off

Rafu'd

Have you ever come across a piece that is neither traditional nor trendy but something contemporary, yet vintage? To make this rare occurrence a common one is what streetwear label Rafu’d stands for. Designer and brand founder Shaishavi Mehta demystifies how “creating awareness about art forms through an impactful story” is the driving force behind their collections. The brand stands to foster the concept of mending—both with its name and its production practices.

Think all things colour, graphic, and exuberance. A sustainable brand that bridges the gap between heritage and contemporary fashion, Rafu’d has created two collections—Chaap Katha and Dant Katha—since it was founded in 2021. From the tie-dyeing masters in Ahmedabad to artisanal weavers from Kutch, the brand patches together our cultural civilisation and the traditional textiles of India.

Uuarter

If you were to look at the creation of textile designer Somya Lochan—she founded the brand Quarter in December 2023—her association with rich Indian crafts will shine through. The Delhi-based menswear label has collaborated with artisans from across the country to curate three discerning collections to date.

The clean appeal of Lochan’s designs forms her brand’s DNA. Lochan worked with an organisation called 7WEAVES in Guwahati, Assam, to develop the hand-spun and hand-woven Eri silk—a fabric that can be worn all year round. The brand has also collaborated with SIDR Crafts—a Gujarat-based dyeing studio with expertise in bandhani, clamp dyes, and shibori techniques.

Lochan signs off by saying that they are expanding onto inculcating Himroo, a fabric made of silk and cotton, grown locally in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, for their next collection.

This article originally appeared in the Cosmopolitan July-August 2024 issue.

Image credits: The brands 

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