We’re in our juicy lips era

Pucker up, girlies! We’ve got all the deets on lip oils—the new big thing in beauty.

28 October, 2024

We’re a reel-viewing, reel-sharing bunch at Cosmo India (well, is there a team that isn’t? If yes, we suggest you find new colleagues). And a few of us are obsessed with ASMR reels—especially the ones where content creator Willow (of @whispering. willow.asmr on Instagram) treats her viewers to a virtual lip treatment. At first, I thought to myself that yes...all that whispering not only turns people on, it is also satisfying for a few of us (volume UP, please). However, there’s another thing: It’s lip care, which is now a rage. Let’s just say that COVID or the post-COVID world (‘the new normal’, people)—or is it the Zoom effect!?—got people focusing on their lips more than any other part of their body. Thus came the surge in cosmetic lip procedures as well. I mean, think about it—we moved from Vaseline, lip balms and scrubs to glosses (‘bloss’: ‘gloss + balm’), tints, and masks in no time. And now, we have officially gained access to the era of lip oils.

What's the hype?

This new entrant in the lip cosmetics segment isn’t as sticky as it seems (and sounds). Popularly considered as a makeup-skincare hybrid, lip oils are non-greasy formulas that work as lightweight alternatives to lip balm or even lip butter. While the product caught everyone’s fancy only late last year, the first sighting of this in the market was the Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil, an instant (no pun intended) sell-out that was a part of the Clarins’ Garden Escape Spring 2015 Collection. This luxe, nourishing product felt perfect for sheen, and tint on days you’d want fuller lips. Later that year, YSL released the Volupté Tint-In-Oil, a product that appeared to be a gloss-meets-tint-meets-lippie. Not accounting for its oily nature, we must mention that the beauty girls were harping about how they just couldn’t do without it. Then came the holy grail of lip oils: The Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil, which made its award-winning debut in 2020, only to have the skincare addicts follow suit after the Pied Piper of the beauty world, Bella Hadid posted a TikTok video of the product in 2022—it went viral. According to a Mintel report, lip oil made up a mere 4 per cent of the global lip care launches in 2021.

Cut to 2022, and #lipoil had over 325 million TikTok (we miss the app, too) views. An Acute Market Reports study states that the lip oil market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.7 per cent during the forecast period of 2024 to 2032. Now, beauty enthusiasts wax lyrical about this product, and it is even taking every country (yes, K-Beauty, J-Beauty, no exception whatsoever) by storm. But what is the big deal, anyway? One question, two words: Hydrating effect. With ingredients that range from hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, and plant oils like jojoba seed, sunflower, grape seed, and rosehip fruit oil to shea butter, there is no doubt that this product has hydrating benefits. Cosmetic physician, author, and founder of SkinLab, Dr Jamuna Pai, explains, “Lip oil offers hydration and nourishment with a lighter texture compared to products such as Vaseline. While traditional balms create a barrier to seal in moisture, lip oils absorb more easily, delivering fatty acids and vitamins that help repair and moisturise the lips.”

From Gisou to Fenty Skin and even homegrown ones like Kay Beauty, Lovechild Masaba, and KIRO, among others, most brands have lip oil variants that help repair damaged skin thanks to their ingredients. Apart from using emollients for a plumping effect, these oils can have actives including peptides and ceramides that improve elasticity and nourish delicate skin. Dr Manisha P Kothari of Mumbai’s Kosmoderma Skin, Hair & Body Clinic agrees, adding, “They contain nourishing ingredients such as vitamins and essential fatty acids, which can penetrate the skin more effectively than traditional balms. While balms create a protective barrier, lip oils can provide softness and hydration, making them more suitable for dry, chapped lips.” Hydration aside, there’s another property that has provided this product cult status. And that is how lightweight it is, and feels. Despite the lexical addition of ‘oil’, Dr Kothari says these “tend to be less greasy and have a more lightweight, glossy finish compared to thicker balms”.

Concurring, Dr Pai shares, “Lip oils provide a natural shine without the heavy feel,” adding an observation, “However, because oils absorb quickly, they may not offer long-lasting moisture protection as thicker balms.”

Wear this, fix what?

It’s already been discussed how these oils can be lightweight, moisturising, and hydrating, giving the lips a glossy look without a greasy feel. However, there’s more than meets the eye. Dr Pai explains: “Lip oils protect your lips from environmental stressors and wind; can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth; and may, at times, contain antioxidants and vitamins to promote healthy lip skin.” Dr Kothari also mentions that lip oils can double duty as a primer.

She recommends applying this oil before any other lip product—“as the oil can help seal in moisture and create a smooth base.” Of course, there’s no such thumb rule to apply lip oils. However, as per Dr Pai, it makes sense to use a lip oil “right after exfoliating your lips.” She dives into the nitty-gritty, adding, “Exfoliation clears away dead skin cells, allowing the oil to absorb more effectively and deliver better hydration. You can also layer the lip oil over a moisturising balm or serum to help lock in the moisture, providing both surface shine and deeper hydration.” While lip oils are perfect as a dump-in-the-vanity-case-forever for a regular touch-up as and when your lips feel dry, “using lip oil before bed is another effective approach, as it allows for extended absorption while you sleep,” says Dr Pai.

Oil this, oil that

While speaking to a couple of friends about lip oils, the one concern voiced out by a number of them was: “What if I breakout after using lip oil?” I had to ask the experts about this—does lip oil affect facial skin, especially for those with already oily skin? Dr Pai was patient in explaining the basics, “Lips lack oil glands, and that is why it does not matter whether one has dry skin or oily, acne-prone skin. It’s usually safe to apply on the lips, but should be applied cautiously to avoid contact with the surrounding skin. Although lip oil is lightweight, excess oil around this area could potentially clog pores and lead to breakouts, especially if it contains comedogenic ingredients.”

Yes, I am aware that I have not spared any detail about lip oils, giving you a rundown on all things about this perfect formula that is both viral and vital. Well, it’s 2024...what’s the fun in gatekeeping anymore?

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