Here’s the truth about ‘best by’ in make-up

Two days ago, I had a beauty wake-up call that shook my make-up routine to its core. On a whim, I checked the expiration date of my trusty kajal—only to discover I’d been applying a product that was over five months past its prime to my eyes. Cue the internal panic. Deep down, I dreaded checking the rest of my make-up stash, but curiosity (and a healthy dose of fear) won out. Little did I know, this simple act would send me down a rabbit hole of beauty industry practices, cultural norms, and personal reflection.

As an Indian, I was raised with the mentality that everything should be used to its fullest potential. Checking expiration dates on make-up? That concept was as foreign to me as leaving food on my plate. Growing up, I watched my mother and grandmother use every last bit of their beauty products, treating them like precious commodities. This frugal approach wasn’t just about saving money—it was a way of life, a value passed down through generations. I have been guilty of squeezing every last drop out of a product before reluctantly tossing it—and I bet I am not alone in this. Just last week, my friend Adlin confessed to using a four-year-old eyeshadow palette and eyeliners, simply because “they still work fine!”

Expiration dates indicate when a product’s quality or effectiveness might start to decline. While loose powder can last up to three years, that tube of mascara you have been hanging onto is supposed to be history after just three months. Factors like storage, climate, and ingredients all play a role in a product’s lifespan. But how many of us actually adhere to these guidelines? In the humid climate of Mumbai or the dry heat of Delhi, are these expiration dates even relevant?

Dr Gurveen Garekar, a dermatologist, emphasises the importance of these dates: “Expiration dates for cosmetic and skincare products are typically reliable indicators of safety and efficacy. However, the actual longevity of these products can be influenced by how they are stored and used.” She advises storing make-up in cool, dry environments and maintaining clean make-up brushes and sponges to prevent any bacterial contamination.

My make-up drawer revelations were eye-opening. That James Charles X Morphe palette from 2018? Still going strong, despite being well past its two-year shelf life. The colours are vibrant, the formula still blends like a dream, and it hasn’t caused any adverse reactions. Call me a risk-taker, but I am not quite ready to part with my go-to colours—discontinued products have a way of tugging at the heartstrings. It is not just a palette; it’s a collection of memories, looks, and milestones.

Sentimentality isn’t the only factor at play. In this economy, replacing a concealer worth ₹5,200 every six months feels like a luxury few can afford. With the rising cost of living and the ever-expanding world of beauty products vying for our attention (and money), the idea of tossing barely-used products feels not just wasteful, but almost irresponsible. The environmental impact of this constant cycle of buying and discarding is also concerning. According to statistics from Zero Waste Week research, plastic packaging waste from the beauty industry reaches over 120 billion units annually. In a country already grappling with waste management issues, are we contributing to the problem with our beauty habits?

At least one in every four people use expired products, according to recent research. Whether to save money, for cultural reasons, or simply because they don’t realise—or believe—their make-up has gone “bad”, many of us are in the same boat. This statistic made me wonder about my friends, colleagues, and even favourite beauty influencers. Are we all silently clinging to our expired favourites, crossing our fingers and hoping for the best?

Tanvi Chemburkar, a make-up artist, offers some practical advice: “I would tell them to check the expiration date on the packaging and not the one that’s on your price tag. There would be an expiration date on the packaging, which kind of tells you how many months or years will it last after you open the product.” She also emphasises on the importance of noticing changes in texture, smell, or appearance as signs that a product may have expired.

The question nagging at me since my expiration date revelation is this: Are these dates really about our safety, or are they part of the beauty industry’s strategy to keep us in a cycle of constant consumption? On the one hand, I understand the importance of using fresh, safe products on our skin. On the other hand, I can’t help but feel a twinge of scepticism.

The beauty industry is a complex ecosystem balancing consumer safety, product innovation, and business interests. While brands emphasise safety and health, they also operate within a competitive market that demands constant innovation and product turnover. As consumers, we are tasked with navigating this landscape, balancing our desire for the latest trends with practical considerations of safety and sustainability.

Dr Garekar warns of the potential risks: “Expired make-up can have serious side effects on your skin ranging from infection, dermatitis, acne, and allergic reactions. The most serious ones are associated with using expired eye make-up.” She particularly cautions against using expired mascara and eyeliners, which can harbour bacteria and lead to severe eye infections.

Standing in front of my vanity, surrounded by products in various stages of expiration, I could not help but feel overwhelmed. Each item seemed to carry its own set of questions and considerations. The foundation that is a perfect match for my skin tone but expired two months ago—keep or toss? The limited edition lipstick I have been saving for special occasions, now past its prime—hold onto it or let it go?

Celebrity make-up artist Namrata Soni offers a balanced perspective. She says, “Using make-up sanitisers and cleaning your make-up tools between each use will extend the life of your product.” However, she also advises: “It’s best to discard anything after two years.”

At this crossroads between my wallet, vanity, and health, I am determined to find a balance. There must be a way to indulge in my passion for make-up without compromising my well-being or my financial health. It’s a journey of self-discovery, consumer awareness, and maybe a little rebellion against the beauty industry status quo.

All images: Getty Images 

This article originally appeared in Cosmo India's September-October 2024 issue.

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