Three dermats weigh in on five burning skin and hair solutions

We asked our readers to drop their most burning skin and hair questions, and let’s just say, they didn’t hold back! So, we brought in three of our trusted dermatologists to clear things up—or, you know, bust the myths you’ve been holding onto. Spoiler alert: these answers will have you rethinking your seven-step skincare routine. PS: You might want to take notes!

Does acne slow the ageing process? 

Dr Jaishree Sharad: Not scientifically. However, if you have acne, you are more likely to have used actives such as retinoids, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid, which also help with anti-ageing.

Dr Kiran Sethi: Acne doesn’t slow the ageing process—having oily skin does the same. One can exist without the other, and vice versa. The more moisturised your skin is, the slower it ages and the more elasticity it retains. 

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar: It is interesting to note that recent research has suggested a possible link between acne and delayed ageing. Historically, it was believed to be due to excess sebum or oil production in acne-prone skin, as oily skin tends to age slower in terms of fine lines and wrinkles. However, a 2016 study published in the Netherlands-based Journal of Investigative Dermatology proposed a genetic connection. The study found that individuals with a history of acne might have longer telomeres, which are DNA structures that protect chromosomes from deterioration. Longer telomeres are associated with slower biological ageing.

Can retinol as well as rosemary oil promote hair growth? 

Dr Jaishree Sharad: Retinol helps promote hair growth when used in conjunction with baseline minoxidil therapy, as it increases the penetration of minoxidil in the scalp. There is some research showing that it increases the anagen phase (which is the healthy phase of hair) and also balances the levels of DHT (dihydrotestosterone, which is a hormone that contributes to hair loss). Monotherapy with retinol needs more research and evidence. Rosemary oil, on the other hand, works by increasing blood circulation and stimulation of hair follicles in the scalp while also having antibacterial properties. There are claims that it might be as effective as minoxidil in stimulating hair growth when used over a period of around six months. But there are only a couple of studies backing that.

Dr Kiran Sethi: Yes they both can, but they require proper molecules, purity, and quantity. With retinol, it is actually tretinoin that’s been shown to work for hair growth. With rosemary oil, it’s 3.8mg of 1,3 cineol (a component called eucalyptol) from rosemary used twice a day that works. So, if it’s just rosemary oil and doesn’t have that 1,3 cineol, it won’t work. 

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar: Yes, rosemary oil does help in promoting hair growth. It is believed to improve blood circulation in the scalp, which can encourage hair follicles to grow. The carnosic acid in rosemary oil may also help with tissue repair. However, it is important to use it consistently over two to three months and maintain a balanced diet and healthy lifestyle for the best results. The role of retinoids in hair growth is indeed still debated. Retinoids are known to enhance the absorption and effectiveness of other hair growth treatments, such as minoxidil. However, their direct impact on promoting hair growth on their own remains inconclusive. While retinoids can improve the overall health of the scalp and hair follicles, their specific role in stimulating new hair growth independently of other treatments has not been definitively established. 

Do peels prevent additional pigmentation for someone who already has hyperpigmentation or melasma? 

Dr Jaishree Sharad: Serial sessions of chemical peels can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and melasma. Peels work mostly by gentle exfoliation and promotion of formation of healthy skin cells. Peeling essentially reduces pigmentation and maintains it. But they are more curative/corrective than preventative. The best way to prevent further hyperpigmentation would be religious sun protection by application of a 50+ SPF sunscreen. Not only sun, but visible light from devices and infrared light from stoves can also worsen pigmentation. One must avoid steam, sauna, scrubbing, excessive sun exposure, sugar, stress, and smoking. If you’re allergic to perfumes and hair dyes, you must also avoid them. Along with this, a regular skincare routine that involves vitamin C and other antioxidants with depigmenting ingredients like kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and alpha arbutin will also help maintain a healthy skin tone. 

Dr Kiran Sethi: Peels can prevent hyperpigmentation but not melasma unless they are DNA repair or ferulic peels. Microneedling at a depth of 0.5mm with gentle redness as an endpoint can help prevent melasma. But the best prevention of all is sunblock! 

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar: Chemical peels are effective for treating existing pigmentation issues, such as melasma, acne marks, and sunspots by removing unwanted melanin from outer layers of skin through chemo exfoliation and promoting new collagen production. However, they don’t impact the mechanisms of melanin production or prevent new pigmentation from forming. So, not a useful tool to prevent pigmentation. For prevention, using topical agents like arbutin, kojic acid, and hydroquinone is way more effective. Consistent sunscreen use is also crucial in protecting the skin from UV damage and preventing further pigmentation. 

Is laser hair removal the only way to get rid of strawberry skin? 

Dr Jaishree Sharad: Yes and no. Strawberry skin is the persistently dotted and grainy appearance of skin post waxing or shaving. For most people it is only a cosmetic issue, but for some it may be itchy or infected, and may turn into folliculitis. Strawberry skin is not permanent—the appearance of it can be reduced or, can be removed completely in some cases by proper shaving practices. Using single blade razors, shaving in the direction of hair, proper lubrication while shaving, moisturisation, and regular exfoliation are some of them. But, for many people, strawberry skin may be extremely resistant. Laser hair reduction is a safe and reliable option for strawberry skin for people of all skin types. Multiple sessions are required for permanent reduction of hair and then the results stay. So, it may not be the only solution, but it is the most reliable one. Make sure to moisturise your skin well if you have strawberry skin. Also if you have keratosis pilaris (or strawberry skin), an inflammatory disorder of the hair follicles, which also looks like strawberry skin, laser won’t help. You will probably need lactic, glycolic acid serums, creams or peels in addition to moisturisers to calm the skin. 

Dr Kiran Sethi: Laser hair removal is one, but electrolysis is another option. Stopping all removal and accepting one’s body hair is another. Essentially, repetitive removal of body hair will cause hairs to get trapped when they regrow. So stopping that process is the goal. 

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar: Keratosis pilaris, often referred to as strawberry skin, seen as red bumpy skin mainly on upper arms, thighs, or buttocks is caused by the accumulation of keratin in hair follicles. To manage this condition, addressing both the keratin buildup and the hair follicles is crucial. Chemical exfoliation is effective for this purpose, as acids such as salicylic, glycolic, and lactic help to dissolve the keratin and smooth the skin. In-clinic chemical peels can offer more intensive exfoliation for better results. Combining these treatments with laser hair removal can enhance outcomes by targeting both the hair follicles and the keratin buildup, leading to improved skin texture and appearance. 

Is glycolic acid a cure for dandruff? 

Dr Jaishree Sharad: Glycolic acid is a type of AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) and is a gentle exfoliator that helps remove build up of dead skin cells. It overall helps in the reduction of oiliness and scalp buildup, thereby promoting a healthy scalp and boosts hair growth. However, if the dandruff is due to an increase in the yeast called malassezia furfur on the scalp, glycolic acid will not help— one will need antifungals such as zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole. 

Dr Kiran Sethi: It helps, but it is not nearly as effective as zinc pyrithione or salicylic acid. 

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar: Glycolic acid being a potent AHA is known for its ability to exfoliate and address scalp issues like oily, flaky dandruff. Of all the AHAs, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight that allows it to penetrate the skin effectively, aiding in the removal of sebum and product buildup. Additionally, its antimicrobial properties can help combat fungal growth that is often seen in severe cases of dandruff. However, because glycolic acid can be irritating, especially on dry or sensitive scalps, it’s best to use it no more than once or twice a week. For optimal results, apply it as a pre-shampoo treatment and avoid leaving it on the scalp for more than 30 minutes. Avoid use if you have a sensitive scalp or any open sores. 

Dr Jaishree Sharad is a Mumbai-based leading dermatologist, Skinfinitii Aesthetic & Laser Clinic’s medical director, and author of The Skincare Answer Book, Skin Rules, Skin Talks.

Dr Kiran Sethi is a Delhi-based cosmetic dermatologist, founder of Isya Aesthetics, and author of Skin Sense.

Dr (Maj) Gurveen W Garekar is a Delhi-based dermatologist who has also served in the Indian Army as a commissioned officer.

Lead image credit: Getty Images 

This article originally appeared in Cosmo India's September-October 2024 issue.

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